Wed, Mar 18, 2015

Luxury Goods, Jewellery & Watches
De Bethune reveals anniversary tribute

Switzerland independent watchmaker De Bethune has unveiled a 10-piece limited edition to commemorate the 10th anniversary of its iconic DBS watch.

Ten years ago, the brand’s founders David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet decided to support Only Watch – an auction held under the patronage of HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco on behalf of research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy – by creating the first DBS, an incredibly high-tech model with an innovative design. 

The white gold case of the DBS testified to a new thought process undertaken by the founders in terms of ensuring a wristwatch makes an ideally comfortable fit, and marked the start of in-depth work on forging a specific De Bethune functional aesthetic. 

The cone-shaped lower lugs, along with the 12 o’clock crown, were subtle details that counterbalanced the almost imposing size of the model that measured 45 mm across at its widest point. Continuing this approach, the pivoting gold plate connecting the upper section of the strap and the case middle was the forerunner of what would later become known as floating lugs – a patented system featuring a spring-type effect that helps adjust to the size of the wrist and its movements. 

In 2005, the DBS laid the first foundations of what has now become one of the industry’s most innovative and creative R&D (research and development) labs. Youthful engineers under the guidance of Flageollet have rolled out a number of unprecedented developments, world firsts and the ten patents filed by the manufacture since its creation in 2002. 

The calibre of the original DBS was already packed with innovations and illustrated the expertise and ingenuity of this “grand” little independent firm. 

To celebrate the 10th anniversary of this iconic model, De Bethune has now equipped the DBS with its tourbillon, entirely emblematic of the extreme precision and performance of its in-house calibres. 

The 30-second tourbillon features a high 36,000 vph frequency ideal for a wristwatch and is amazingly light at 0.18 grams for a total of 63 parts – of which the lightest weighs less than 0.0001 g and the heaviest 0.0276 g. 

These important factors, guaranteeing the precision and reliability of the mechanism despite the abrupt and random nature of wrist movements, are made possible by the incorporation and the underlying technical mastery of materials such as silicon and titanium. 

The dial providing a fascinating window onto DB2019 calibre reveals a wealth of technical and subtly decorated details. Held by a finely titanium annular bridge, the tourbillon at 6 o’clock performs an endlessly fascinating mechanical ballet. 

It appears to be suspended in mid-air, standing out against the anthracite deltoid-shaped bridges and delineating a time read-off zone by means of spherical steel indicators hand-polished and blued using the age-old flameblueing technique. 

Subtle touches of blue, cleanly-cut hands and hour-markers, shimmering reflections playing across the materials, ruthenium-coated Côtes De Bethune contrasting with silver-toned finish of the minutes ring: the aesthetic construction of the DBS built around the extreme technical sophistication of the movement explores the technical and artistic skills of the manufacture and celebrates ten years of exclusivity, excellence and beauty.

The new De Bethune timepiece was revealed ahead of the Baselworld watch and jewellery show, which opens in Basel, Switzerland, tomorrow.

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